Friday 1 February, 2008

Ahobilam - Bhargava Narasimha Swamy

Our last shrine was the Bhargava Narasimha Shrine located about two kms from the Ahobilam Mutt. We took the jeep with 10 people per jeep, which costs Rs 200 for trip. After 10 minutes of shoddy ride over rough terrain we reached the shrine and were glad to be alive. We had a brief darshan and returned back to the mutt. After coffee and some rest we set out for Chennai at 6pm and reached Chennai early morning on 28th Jan by 3am.
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Ahobilam - Prahalada Mettu

I shot this snap while returning from the Pavana Narasimha Shrine. This is Prahaladha మెట్టు (Mettu) or Prahalada పడి (Padi). In the snap its the plateau with the tree right near the top edge.

You can get here from the Malola Narasimha Shrine. This is the place where Prahalda was kept and schooled by the Rakshasas. Some people from our group visited the shrine and told us the etchings of the Rakshasa script is still visible on the rocks.

Ahobilam - Pavana Narasimha Swamy and Chenchulakshmi

The Pavana Narasimha shrine is about 6 kms from the Ahobilam Shrine and is reached by trek through thick forest. See the pictures. I suggest you take a guide along as there are several paths along the way that branch out from the main path and if by chance you take the wrong one you'll find yourself in the midst of the jungle. Also travel in small groups so that you can ward off animals, though I nor anyone I know had any encounters with wild animals, its better to take precautions.

After picking up our bamboo canes we started the trek at 7:15 am, the initial steps are steep and you'll notice a lot of feathers strewn around and blood stains, the remains of sacrifices. After a pleasant trek we reached the shrine at 10:15 am that's about three hours and we were walking barefoot, those with footwear made it in two hours. One person in the group made it in 1 1/2 hours! He was carrying packed breakfast for all of us.

Narasimha is on the banks of the river Pavana and hence the name. He is with his consort Chenchulakshmi with Lord Bharadwaj at his feet. We had a fantastic dharshan. One very informed couple in the group handed over a box of tea bags, milk powder and sugar to the Archakar. I wondered if this was a ritual and was told that the Archakar had Agricultural lands in Lower Ahobilam which could provide him sustainance however he wanted to continue the tradition in the shrine and so now resides near the Pavana Narasimha shrine. His dwelling is small without Electricity and he comes to lower Ahobilam once a week to buy groceries. People who know him carry food or other items for him. I suggest that you do the same when you visit the shrine so that he can sustain his modest living and continue the tradition.

The Chenchulakshmi shrine is about one km from the Pavana Narasimha Shrine. Some of us didn't visit this shrine since the sun was up and we wanted to reach Lower Ahobilam. A few who did told us that you'll have to crawl to see the diety and there are remains of animal sacrificies, but nothing so gruesome to scare you.

We started the return trek at 11 am and reached the Ahobilam temple by 1:30 pm. Yes we were the last and there were others who reached much earlier, remember we were walking barefoot.

We reached the Ahobilam mutt by 2pm, had lunch and some rest and left for the next shrine - The Bhargava Narasimha Temple.

Ahobilam - Prahaladha Varadhan & Amruthavalli

After some coffee we visited the Prahalada Varadhan shrine near the Ahobilam mutt. In the sanctum are the Utsava idols of Prahlada Varada, Pavana Narasimha and the processional idols of Jwala Narasimha., This is because its difficult to perform pooja at the respective shrines on the utsava days.

With this darshan I have visited eight Narasimha Shrines in a single day and broke my earlier record of six Narasimha Shrines in a single day.

After darshan we lined up outside the sanctum for Prasadam and were given Panchangam and Sundal. We then leisurely strolled out eyeing the shops that lined the streets. We bought the VCD on Ahobilam for Forty Rupees and the Sthala Puranam for 20 Rupees. Later in the night we figured out that the book actually costed only 10 rupees. We had dinner by 8 pmand went to sleep by 9pm so that we could start early to the Pavana Narasimha shrine the next day.

Ahobilam - Chatravatha Narasimha Swamy

The Lord is under a peepal tree and hence called Chatravata Narasimha Swamy. We stayed here long enough and performed Abhishekam (Thirumanjanam) for the Lord.

While the Alankaram was in progress the Archakar told us the story of Ahobilam.- Wisdom at its best. All of us listened in pin drop silence. Some bits from the story have made it into my blogs especially the one on "Cudappah Stones".

Ahobilam - Yogananda Narasimha Swamy

We set out at 4pm by bus and ten minutes later reached the Yogananda Narasimha Swamy temple.

This shrine is the Seventh of the Nine shrines. According to the Puranas Narasimha taught Yoga and Rajakriya to Bhakta Prahalada here.

After having a brief darshan we left for the next shrine.

Ahobilam - Karangya Narasimha Swamy

We boarded the buses and on our way back stopped by the Karangya Narasimha shrine to have Darshan .Lord Narasimha is under a tree, called 'Karanja Vruksham' and hence the name.

Lord Narasimha is with a bow and Sudarshana Chakram and has a Third eye (Trinetra) . According to the puranas Lord Hanuman doesnt believe that Lord Narasimha is an avatar of Lord Rama, so the lord opens his third eye and tells Lord Hanuman that he's Lord Shiva and also Lord Rama and Lord Rama appears to Lord Hanuman in the third eye.

According to the puranas each of the nine Narasimha shrines were worshipped by the nine planets. This Shrine is supposed to have been worshipped by Chandru (Moon)

We then took the bus and reached the Ahobilam mutt at 2pm and had lunch and about 45 minutes of rest before we set out again.

Ahobilam - Kroda (Varaha) Narasimha Swamy and Mandapam

After Malola we made our way back to the Ahobilam temple and on the way I clicked this snap of the Varaha Narasimha Temple and the Mandapam which must have served as a resting place for pilgrims in earlier times.

Ahobilam - Malola Narasimha Swamy

After having darshan of Jwaala Narasimha we made our way to the Malola Narasimha shrine. By this time the sun was out and the rays were slicing through the thick vegetation canopy.

Lord Malola (Ma-Lakshmi Lola-beloved) Narasimha is in soumya (graceful) form with his consort Lakshmi and carries the Sudarshana Chakram with AdiShesha over his head. Garuda is the Vahana.

Ahobilam - Jwaala Narasimha Swamy

After darshan at the Varaha shrine we made our way to the Jwaala shrine which is on a hill called Achalachaya Meru about 4kms from the Ahobilam shrine. The last few metres to the Jwaala Narasimha temple is narrow with a deep gorge on one side and is just enough for two people to pass. There is a thick chain hammered into the mountain to serve as a hand rail. I shot the first snap when we first sighted the shrine. Its the small gap that you see slightly above the big leaf in the foreground.

The Rakthakundam in the second picture is where Lord Narasimha is said to have washed his hands after killing the demon Hiranyakasipu. Notice the water is still reddish in appearance. However when you take the water in your palm it it is in its natural colourless form.

The Lord has eight hands. It is said that its here that the Lord's anger reached its peak and culminated in the killing of Hiranyakasipu. I am afraid of heights so after having darshan made a quick but careful descent back to firmer terrain and in the process forgot to click the shrine from a closer distance. But managed to click the shrine probably half way downhill. Also forgot to click the fabulous formation of rocks on the hill.

Ahobilam - Ugra Sthambam

After darshan at Varaha Narasimha shrine we made our way to see Jwaala Narasimha through thick vegetation. See the first picture on the left. We had a guide (the tour organiser who was from Ahobilam) and so managed to take the correct path and fortunately did not get lost. The vegetation is so thick that it camouflages the gorges and other steep drops.

We sighted the Ugra Sthambam from a distance. It is from this pillar that Lord Narasimha is set to have appeared when Hiranyakasipu kicked it. You'd notice a red flag on the top. The Ugra Sthambam is 8 kms from the Upper Ahobilam Temple. Some pilgrims make there way all the way up to the Ugra Sthambam but we skipped it.

Ahobilam - Kroda (Varaha) Narasimha Swamy

The Kroda (Varaha) Narasimha swamy shrine is the first shrine we saw after a trek of about a kilometre over rocks and rivulets. Here Lord Narasimha is in the form of a Boar with his consort Lakshmi.

Ahobilam - Terrain

After having darshan of Narasimha Swamy and his consort Chenchulakshmi we setout on foot to the other shrines. Some of us picked bamboo canes to support our gait during the trek. You can see the terrain that was set out for us in the pictures. The first snap is the terrain adjoining the upper Ahobilam shrine, While the second is as you make your way to the Kroda (Varaha) Narasimha Shrine. Travel in groups to be safe as rocks and gravel are slippery.

Ahobilam - Upper Ahobilam Narasimha Swamy & Chenchulakshmi

We started by 7am and reached upper Ahobilam by bus and this is the first shrine we visited.

The Lord here appears in his fierce aspect, called Ugra Narasimha, and is the presiding deity of this temple and is known as Ahobila Narasimha Swamy. Thayaar or his consort Lakshmi is Chenchulakshmi. The Lord Narasimha was 'Svayambhu' (self-manifested) here.

Chenchu is a tribe and Goddess Lakshmi was born among this tribe and married Narasimha after he slayed Hiranyakasipu. Since the Chenchu tribe are meat eating people even till this day locals offer meat at the Chenchu Lakshmi shrine which is located near the Pavana Narasimha shrine.

Surprisingly there is a Shiva Lingam as you enter the sanctum sanctorum. Lord Narasimha is said to have appeared for Bhakta Prahalada and you would see Bhakta Prahalada with folded hands paying obeisance to the Lord. Notice Hiranyakasipu being torn on the Lord's lap.

Ahobilam - Suggested Itenarary

We were supposed to leave Chennai on Friday at 5:30 in the evening. All of us where there at the Saidapet Police station bus stop on time but the bus turned up only by 8pm! From there we picked up a few more people and left for Ahobilam. The bus was rickety with no push-back seats and we could hardly rest our heads. We stopped by at a small temple at 9:30pm to have our dinner. We had a cook accompanying us because there were some orthodox devotees who don't eat at restaurants, for that matter there are no restaurants in Ahobilam only a few small joints serving the . So the cook had packed dinner. We reached Ahobilam on Saturday at 7 the next morning and lodged at the Ahobilam Mutt. And after toilet and bath set out for the shrines. Our plan was

Day 1 - Morning
---------------
Ahobilam - Upper Ahobilam Narsimha Swamy & Chenchulakshmi
Ahobilam - Kroda (Varaha) Narasimha Swamy
Ahobilam - Jwaala Narasimha Swamy
Ahobilam - Malola Narasimha Swamy
Ahobilam - Karangya Narasimha Swamy

Day 1 - Afternoon
-----------------
Ahobilam - Yogananda Narasimha Swamy
Ahobilam - Chatravatha Narasimha Swamy

Day 1 - Evening
-----------------
Ahobilam - Lower Ahobilam Narsimha Swamy & Amruthavalli


Day 2 - Morning
---------------
Ahobilam - Pavana Narasimha Swamy and Chenchulakshmi


Day 2 - Afternoon
-----------------
Ahobilam - Bhargava Narasimha Swamy

On day 1 we set out after having breakfast and returned by 2:00pm. Had Lunch and an hour of rest and set out again by 4pm. The second day was no different we packed breakfast and set out for Pavana Narasimha Swamy Shrine and returned by 2pm only to leave for Bhargava Narsimha Shrine by 4pm. The darshan we had was splendid because we had the Archakar in every shrine, arranged by then Archakar from Kanchipuram accompanying us and his wife, the organiser, who happened to be from Ahobilam. On Sunday we left Ahobilam at 6pm had dinner again on a wayside temple and reached Chennai by 3 on Monday morning.

Ahobilam - Suggested Packing List

My trip to Ahobilam over the weekend was sandwiched between two other trips to Colombo. So I had to return from Colombo on Friday (25th Jan) morning only to take the bus that very evening to Ahobilam and I would return to Chennai on morning of the following Monday (28th Jan) only to leave the very evening to Colombo again. So I missed packing a few essentials required for a pilgrimage. Here is what I should have but didnt take with me on my trip.

- Bottled Water and Rehydration Salts (Electral / Glucose)
- Dhoti / Veshti and Angavastram (Its the appropriate dress to pay obesience to the Lord)
- Namam and Trishnam
- Dry fruits to offer the lord - Sugar Candy (Kalkand), Cashew, Badam, Pista, Fig etc
- A terracota cup or Dhonna for offering
- Pramida / Agal, Ghee and Wick to light lamps
- A bottle with a wide mouth to collect the Theertham at various shrines
- Small Plastic Zip Lock cover to collect the kumkum

Ahobilam - Myths and Facts

For quite a few years I have been mystified by Ahobilam mainly due to the strange and often scary tales told by people. I have asked these people a few questions to figure out if these tales are authentic and in almost all instances have have been given vague answers. Here is all the crap that I heard

- Ahobilam is home to 9 Narsimha Shrines
- Its not a place for women
- It is dangerous to visit the 9th Shrine
- The 9th shrine is littered with carcases of sacrificed animals
- People who visit the Jwaala Narasimha Shrine have not returned

This obviously increased my curiosity and a year later I found someone who knew someone who could take me to Ahobilam. And here is what I saw

Ahobilam is located in the Nallamalai hills of the eastern ghats in the Kurnool district of Andhra Pradesh. You can reach Ahobilam from Chennai if you take the Renigunta - Cudappah - Allagadda route. From Hyderabad / Secundrabad reach Nandyal then onward to Allagadda and Ahobilam (about 75 kms from Nandyal). By either route it takes about 7 to 10 hours to reach Ahobilam. Ahobilam is about 75 kms from Tirupathi. Ahobilam is one of the 108 Divya Desams and is also known as Singavel Kundram

According to Hindu mythology the Nallamalai hills are a personification of Adishesha the serpant bed of Lord Vishnu. Four important Shaiva (Lord Shiva) and Vaishnava (Lord Vishnu) places of worship are located in the Nallamalai hills - Srisailam (Shaiva) is at the tail end, Ahobilam (Vaishnava) is in the middle, Tirumala (Vaishnava) is at the head end and Srikalahasti (Shaiva) is at the mouth of Adishesha.

According to Brahmanda Purana Ahobilam is the place where the Lord in the form of Narasimha, a half human half Lion personification, killed Hiranyakasipu and saved Prahalada. On introspection I wonder if God had to take such a powerful avatar how powerful Hiranyakasipu would have been. Its also believed that Lord Narasimha granted Hiranyakasipu two wishes before enticing him to come to the door step and then killed him. One look at the terrain and you would notice that it has all the hallmarks of having borne a palace sometime in the past. The layers of rock, the pillars and slabs all of them tell a story, silently! As per legend the palace burned after Narasimha killed Hiranyakasipu and that destruction caused what we know today as the "Cuddapah Stones".

Since the Lord had to take the Narasimha form in a hurry to save Prahalada he left his abode without his Vahana, Garuda. Garuda was upset and so wished for a vision of Lord in the Narasimha Avatar. To fulfill his wish, the Lord settled in the hills around Ahobilam in the midst of dense forests in nine different forms. For this reason this hill came to be known as Garudadri, Garudachalam, and Garudasailam.

According to Stala Purana, there are two popular legends for the derivation of the word 'Ahobilam'. It is stated that the Devas, while witnessing the Ugra Kala, the lord took on in order to tear Hiranyakasipu, sung praises as 'Ahobala' (Aho - Surprise Bala - strength). Hence this place has come to be known as Ahobilam. The other version is that because of the great cave, the Ahobila (Aho - Great Bila - Cave), where Garuda worshipped, did penance and realised the lord, the place itself has come to be called Ahobilam

The whole complex is in two parts - one called Eguvu Ahobilam (Upper Ahobilam) with Nava Narasimha shrines and the other called Diguvu Ahobilam (Lower Ahobilam)

Thirumangai Azhvaar has sung ten verses about this temple in Periya Thirumozhi.

- Ahobilam is home to 9 Narsimha Shrines - Well Right and Wrong it is home to 10 Narasimha Shrines. Nava Narasimhas and the Tenth Narasimha - Prahaladha Varadhan at Lower Ahobilam which is not counted among the other shrines
- Its not a place for women - Wrong. Its very safe. Just dont wander out alone in the dark thats not safe anywhere in the world.
- It is dangerous to visit the 9th Shrine - Pavana Narasimha Temple, The 9th shrine is accessed by a 6 km trek through the forest. Ofcourse you should not venture out alone but going in groups of 5 - 10 people is definitely safe. There have been reported sightings of Grizzly Bears but in my visit we were fortunate not to have such encounters. Have faith in the lord and dont take this trip as if it was a picnic.
- The 9th shrine is littered with carcases of sacrificed animals - The Chenchu Lakshmi shrine does have feathers strewn about and traces of blood from sacrifices. In fact you'll observe this while climbing the first few steps of the trek but there is nothing to scare the daylights of you. You'd have probably seen this sight in your neigbourhood.
- People who visit the Jwaala Narasimha Shrine have not returned - I belive there was a single incident of two people falling into the gorge but considering the number of people who visit the shrine Lord Narasimha Swamy has been great to his devotees. Have faith, will-power and devotion and leave the rest to him. But yes don't get over-emotional or panic and run through the path. Such behaviour causes accidents. Walk in a single line and allow the opposite traffic to pass. Have patience.