Saturday, 8 August 2009

Rishikesh - Day 1 and Day 2

Rishikesh is about 20 kms from Haridwar. We were booked in one of the numerous Ashrams that line the shore of the Ganges. There was a slight drizzle when we arrived and the weather was sultry. We checked into our modest rooms (no Airconditioner only a Cooler) unpacked . The room was comfortable with three beds but had a cramped toilet that its unlikely for you to step in without knocking on any of the fixtures! My colleagues wanted to take the स्नान (Snan - Holy Dip) and we stepped out. I clicked the Rudraksha Tree that you see on the left and then followed them. Took a quick snap of the Ganges that you see in the second snap. After the स्नान we returned had some lunch and took some rest to save our energy for the evening walk.

We planned to see the Lakshman Jhula, Jhula, Triyambakeshwar Temple and the night Aarathi and the Triveni Ghat.

We left for Lakshman Jhula at about 4 pm fearing that the Kavariyas would pour in and we might miss the chance to walk across. The Ganges winds its way into Rishiskesh and there are two bridges one being the Lakshman Jhula and the other the Ram Jhula. Depending on the road you take your are likely to approach one of them first.

Lakshman Jhula is believed to have been erected by Lakshmana the brother of Lord Rama to cross the Ganges. In its present form the Lakshman Jhula is a steel rope suspension bridge with wooden planks. During this time of the year the authorities allow you to walk across towards the Triyambakeshwar temple. You are not allowed to cross back but asked to use the Ram Jhula to return. Pilgrims walk across the Lakshman Jhula to symbolically mimic Lakshman's actions. We did click a few snaps but the poor lighting and a bad flash gave us no images. Having spent most of the time getting to Lakshman Jhula that we missed the Aarthi at the Ram Jhula. Unlike the Lakshman Jhula the Ram Jhula has no religious significance and has been erected by the government a few years back.

Disappointed, we decided to return and grab a meal on the way. We sat by a roadside Dhaba amidst honks and people scurrying and had a light dinner of Naan, Roti (types of Indian Bread) and came back to the Ashram, packed and retired for the night.

The night was terrible sultry weather and a bad cooler kept us sticky and rolling on the mattress. We woke up the next morning with a red eye!
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Haridwar - Shrines

If there is anything confusing about Haridwar, it is locating the authentic shrine of Gangamma and the shrine that houses the foot step of Hari (Vishnu) who is set to have stepped here on his way to Vaikuntam and hence the name Hari-ki-Pauri. Every temple has the words "Ancient Ganga Temple" scrawled across the wall and had me flummoxed. I visited the first one that I encountered (See picture). The shrine had two priests one at the main diety Gangamma's Sanctum Sanctorium and the other at Lord Narasimha's shrine which is located on the wall adjoining the entrance. I offered my prayers to Gangamma, the priest muttered some sanskrit verses and we repeated them verbatim, deposited Rs. 50 in the preist's plate and while circumambulating was dragged by the second priest who rather forced us to visit the other shrines. Ofcourse we had to follow the ritual of muttering some more sanskrit verses and part with about Rs. 40 for the services!. I retrieved my footwear and wanted to stroll around a bit to see the other sights when Iwas stopped by a official saying that footwear was not allowed beyond this point, Its only then I realised that I might have visited the many storefront temples that throng every religious place. This insipte of the research before the trip. I still wanted to visit the other shrines but the constant pull of my colleagues accompanying me and the heavy drizzle that started we were forced to return to our car. I strongly suggest that you read through the phto esaays available here and here before visiting the shrines. As for me I plan to return sometime next year for another pilgrimage. Here are some snaps from the trip. This is the place I had my snan (holy dip). You can see this bridge in the James G. Lochtefeld's second photo essay. In the first photo of the essay you can see the bridge in the background while the last photo does show the bridge on the left the flight of steps that lead to the bridge is missing indicating that it has been constructed recently.











The "Store Front" temple that I visited. It had "Ancient Ganga Temple" inscribed on it. Apparently this temple is not the ancient one! It is infact a private temple See the last photo in James G. Lochtefeld's second photo essay.








The Brahmakund and the Lakshminarayana Temple with the Ganagamma temple on the left.











The unfinished Gangamma temple. Considered to be the oldest temple and the bathing ghat to the left is considered to be the holiest and most important bathing place. Construction was halted due to a law suit!